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  1. General Description and Installation

  2. Basic Design Considerations

  3. Specific Design Solutions

  4. Psychological Impact

  5. Liability Requirements and Troubleshooting

GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND INSTALLATION

There are several basic considerations and many secondary considerations in designing an electric fence. We shall discuss the primary considerations first.

NOTE:  When properly designed and installed, an electric security fence is the least expensive, safest, and most secure method for securing property and lives when compared to walls, other types of fences, human guards, and watch dogs. The fence does NOT sleep. The fence CANNOT be bribed. The fence does NOT require food or water. A well designed electric fence has more deterrence value than a guard with a sawed off shotgun or a snarling pit bull,

1. COST:  consider that any cost is “too expensive” if the fence is ineffectual, or just doesn’t work. So then, we have to have, at the least, a minimally effective design, to justify the cost, or it isn’t worth doing at all. Do it right, or don't bother.

If you have security guards, you can pay for the fence by laying off at least half of your guard force and still maintain a much higher security level. The remaining guards can respond quickly before an intruder even enters onto the property.  

   An Electric Security Fence is designed to keep out predators, thieves, trespassers, vandals and disease. If you also employ security guards, they will complement the security that is provided by a well designed high voltage electric fence.

   An Electric Security Fence is designed to protect property, livestock, production, manufacturing, and lives.

   When designing your electric security fence, keep in mind the above two statements and each individual item that applies. Also to “keep out” or to “keep in” or “both” are all valid considerations.

   The smallest effective “fence extension” consists of 3 strands where one (1) center strand is grounded (ground potential) and a minimum of two (2) charged strands. The reason for 2 charged strands is security. You make the connections to achieve one (1) charged wire where the high voltage goes out and then loops to return on the second strand. 

   However, if you connect both the outgoing and returning ends to the charger, then, even if cut, the high tensile wire is charged from both ends. 

   The more secure design is, the returning high tensile wire is connected to a high voltage monitor and alarm.

   Therefore all electric security fences should have an even number of charged “high tensile” strands. 2, 4, 6, 8, etc. strands.

   A voltage monitor attached to the very end of the charged strand will sound and alarm or siren if the wire is cut or shorted making the voltage drop. Although very few petty thieves will attempt to cut through the fence, the fence/voltage monitor makes the electric security fence into an alarm sounding security device when tampered with. 

   If the fence is designed to make it very difficult to pass without a resultant shock, and when coupled with a voltage fence monitor becomes an extremely effective security system. The final determination will always be a balance to whether the additional level of security is worth the added cost of a voltage monitor.

   Grounded Strands: the high tensile strands should alternate with grounded strands. The grounded strands should be insulated exactly like the high tensile strands. If all the strands are insulated, the fence is perceived as much more lethal, and therefore becomes much more effective. If an intruder actually decides to cut a wire, not knowing which are grounded strands and which are charged strands makes the fence retain a higher security rating.

   A fence is designed with 3 or more strands. Usually, the top strand and the bottom strand are charged, however, there are some cases where a 4th grounded strand is added as the topmost strand to help ward of falling foliage, fronds, etc to help prevent the plants from shorting out the high tensile strands and creating "false alarms". 

   If the electric fence is constructed from ground level, then the bottom strand may be a grounded strand to prevent weeds and grass from shorting out the “high tensile” circuit. However, a concrete footer is a better design option.


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INSTALLING THE EQUIPMENT:


   The components of your system should be installed and mounted inside and out of sight and LOCKED out of reach from unauthorized people. Hang the high voltage charger from the wall and connect it to the battery placed under fence charger using the red and black wires that are attached to the fence charger with the red wire to the positive terminal and the black wire to the negative terminal.

NOTE: Make sure the fence charger switch is turned to the “OFF” position. Connect the battery charger to the battery and plug the battery charger into the wall voltage of 230 volts so that the battery is being continuously charged. The current limiting circuit supplied with the charger will keep the battery from becoming over-charged and protect the charger from shorts.

   Now connect your Earth Ground System  and all your ground return wires together, and then make the connection to ground connection on the fence charger. Use a minimum sized wire of 14 AWG or larger, in either solid copper or galvanized steel and make the connections with appropriate connectors. A common cause of failure is a poor connection to the high voltage strands from the high voltage charger.

   Finally make your high voltage connection to the fence using an appropriate connector with high tensile or spark plug wire with an insulation rating of 15,000 volts or higher. When you run the high tensile wire to the fence charger make sure the high voltage wire is not laying on the ground, and is not running through water, and is not placed across sharp corners. Many installations use standard (14AWG solid) single strand wire fed through a thick wall plastic hose.

   If you have purchased a fence monitor connect it to your battery and connect the high voltage input to the high voltage terminal on the monitor using the same high tensile wire that you used to connect the charger to the fence. Connect the Earth Ground System to the ground terminal of the monitor.

   The fence monitor will continuously monitor the voltage on the fence. If an intruder cuts a wire the fence monitor will sound a siren alarm.

   As the monitor is powered from the same battery that feeds the charger, and the "fail safe" relay will close on loss of High Voltage, the relay will also close on the loss of the 12 volts from the battery that is powering both the charger and the monitor, so we strongly recommend a separate battery that powers the siren, bell, or whatever alarm notification is provided. The small extra cost of a small 12 volt battery that will feed your siren raises the security rating of your system at least another notch higher on the security rating scale.

   The built-in voltmeter on the High Voltage charger also continuously monitors the voltage on the fence. If a frond or foliage is laying across the high tensile wire, and partially shorting it out, the fence voltage will drop. If the voltage drops out of the green zone, it is time to clean your fence.

   We recommend that you check your fence at least once a week. Plant foliage, or branches or fronds laying across the high tensile wire might not reduce the voltage on the meter when dry, but foliage becomes a conductor when wet and might easily short out your system completely reducing the fence voltage to almost zero when soaked from rain.

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  1. General Description and Installation

  2. Basic Design Considerations

  3. Specific Design Solutions

  4. Psychological Impact

  5. Liability Requirements and Troubleshooting

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Accoutrements Security Alarm Trading & Services 2003 - 2008
Mandaue City, Cebu Philippines

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